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Whitesbog will always be memorable for me
since it was the first real ghost town I visited in the Pine Barrens. The
first ever cranberry bogs I ever seen were here and is truly one of the
most gorgeous parts of the Pine Barrens. Although you will not learn much
about the Pine Barrens in this prologue what you will learn about one of
the nicest and first ghost towns we visited in the Pine
Barrens.
I learned about Whitesbog when I read about
some Jersey Devil sightings which took place here. What I am is a tracker
and if others seen this cryptid during festivals like the Blueberry one
then I figured for our team it would be a nice place to start. I mean a
world away from a world a ghost town away from a town and a place where
the trees sing and the bogs hold many secrets. I also heard that on
occasion weird tracks have been found in the eerie woods which surround
this ghost town.
Whitesbog is in a 3000 area land tract in the
pine barrens. The village sits back in the Brendan
T. Byrne State Forest surrounded by abandoned bogs. Whitesbog was a
cranberry town one giant company that was active around 1857. The area
starts at the headwaters of Rancocas Creek. We did drive around the town
and hike it was apparent that not much has changed over the years here as
the lakes, streams, meandering trails all very much looked like this back
when the town was in its hayday.
The
area is known for its tundra swans, gull-billed terns, white tailed deer,
black bear, fox, and whip-poor-wills. The village had the largest
cranberry farm in NJ in the early 1900s. It was a main settlement for
cranberry farming which was operated by Joseph J. White who was very
successful at the cranberry industry. Later on over the years Elizabeth C.
White and Dr. Frederic Coville developed the first cultivated blueberries
here. You can read about her further below in greater detail.
The
town was really one giant plantation and it housed over 40 permanent
residents and over 500 seasonal workers. It thrived for almost a
century but by the 1960s the town only needed five workers instead of
hundreds for harvesting. Over the years technology was revitalizing the cranberry
industry the irregular shaped bogs became unnecessary and wet harvesting
was a new technique which cut down on the amount of workers needed.
Most
of the town is still preserved today which has workers cottages, general
store, post office, houses, school, processing buildings and even the
Elizabeth C. White's house which was built upon the original blueberry
test field. The house was called Suningive which has the first cranberry
bog cultivated on the property behind it in the 1800s. It also is
surrounded by many native pine barren plants.
The
state purchased the village in 1967 and is registered as a historical
site. Its also been the site of some films especially the one called
"Satan's Playground" which is about a family whose camping trick
goes wrong. It was so exciting just pulling up into the town seeing
its water town, eerie abandoned cranberry warehouse and the possibility of
seeing something in the woods surrounding this place.
©
By
Lord
Rick





Elizabeth
Coleman
White,
born 1871, was the oldest of the four daughters of Joseph J. And Mary A.
(Fenwick) White of New Lisbon, NJ. At the age of 22 Elizabeth began
working on her family's cranberry plantation at Whitesbog in the heart of
the New Jersey Pine Barrens. Unlike her sisters, Elizabeth never married
but spent the balance of her 83 years involved in many pursuits at
Whitesbog and throughout the Pines region. One of these endeavors, the
first successful attempt to cultivate blueberries, earned her a national
reputation as a horticulturist and significantly modified the economy of
the New Jersey Pine Barrens and other similar areas throughout the
country.
Her first job at the bogs in 1893 was handing out tickets to the harvest
crew in return for the boxes of cranberries that they picked by hand
during the fall months. During the next 18 years, Elizabeth exhibited
interest in finding ways to continue the improvement of the business at
Whitesbog which was rapidly expanding into the largest cranberry operation
in the state. During the first decade of the twentieth century, she
collaborated with Dr. John B. Smith, a government entomologist, who
studied and eliminated a type of katydid that was ruining the crops. Then,
in 1911, Elizabeth read the U.S.D.A. publication entitled,
"Experiments in Blueberry Culture," researched and written by
Dr. Frederick V. Coville (Coville 1910). Realizing the potential value of
the work, Elizabeth contacted Coville to offer him support in his work. (Hambidge
1927).
The blueberry, or Vaccinium corymbosum (the high bush variety) and
Vaccinium Pennsylvanicum, (the low bush variety), grows throughout the
Pinelands in the same general environment that nurtures its cousin, the
cranberry (Vaccinium Macrocarpus). Like the cranberry, the blueberry
thrives on the acid soil of this region. Blueberries ripen earlier than do
cranberries. Their harvesting in July thus complements the cranberry
harvest of the fall. Local residents traditionally set aside time in July
to go to the "huckleberry" woods to have picnics and pick the
fruit. (The term "huckleberry" as used in New Jersey referred
both to the New England huckleberry of genus Gaylussacia as well as to the
blueberry.) Many tried to cultivate the plants in their gardens but
without success. In a taped interview in 1953, Elizabeth recalled her own
experiences in this endeavor:
[Father and I] had talked about the possibility of adding blueberries to
our cranberry crop but we were not the fruit people to know that we had to
have a uniform product. We knew the wild bushes were very, very different.
We used to go around sampling these fruits and one would be too sour and
one would be too flat, one would be too skinny and finally, we would come
to one that father would call "peachy," but we didn't know how
to propagate the plant. At that time, it was said among the farmers of New
Jersey that blueberries could not be cultivated. (White 1953: personal
communication) In 1916, only five years after Elizabeth White's alliance
with Dr. Coville, they had managed to cultivate and produce a blueberry
crop for sale. Contributing to the effort were three parties: Coville, who
offered the scientific knowledge and technique necessary to propagate and
hybridize fruit; J.J. White, Inc., and particularly Elizabeth C. White,
who offered financing and the Whitesbog infrastructure necessary to carry
out experiments on a large scale; and, finally, the "Pineys"
themselves. It was the contribution of the latter which is perhaps the
most interesting. The Pineys were enlisted by Miss White to employ their
woodsmen's skills as hunter-gatherers to search the Pines within a 20-mile
radius of Whitesbog and locate the choicest blueberry shrubs. Elizabeth
recalled the ability of these men in distinguishing the endless varieties
of blueberry: ... As I was hunting wild blueberry bushes I learned that
the old blueberry pickers that were going to the different swamps
recognized a difference in the class of bushes in each swamp. For
instance, in Iricks Swamp I was told that the majority of the berries were
pear shaped and I was told that in Feather Bed Swamp the majority of the
berries were very blue and flattened. (White 1953: personal
communication). Elizabeth devised a plan to tap this knowledge in order to
locate the best possible plants in the area, in effect, to locate the one
bush out of 10,000 having exceptionally fine characteristics for
propagation. Pickers going into the woods for the wild berries were
organized under either Jake Sooy or Alfred Stevenson and equipped with
labels, bottles containing the preservative formalin, and an aluminum
gauge with a 5/8-inch diameter hole. Only bushes having berries 5/8 inch
or larger were sought. The effort was rewarded at $2.00 per bush plus the
time required for relocating each plant and bringing it back (Hambidge
1927). In addition, the finders enjoyed the distinction of having the
bushes which they found named after them. Thus it was that the last
generation of the highly skilled woodsmen-gatherers gave their names to
the first cultivated blueberries, as Miss White recalls: In getting the
early bushes I tried to name every bush after the finder. And so I had the
Adams bush found by Jim Adams, the Harding bush that was found by Ralph
Harding, and the Dunphy bush that was found by Theodore Dunphy. When Sam
Lemon found a bush I could not name it the Lemon bush so I called it the
Sam. Finally, Rube Leek of Chatsworth found a bush. I did not know it was
anything special at that time and I used the full name in my notes....
Coville called it the Rube which I thought was a poor name for an
aristocratic bush. He finally suggested that we call it the Rubel. And the
Rubel bush has really been the keystone of blueberry breeding. It is the
one bush of which there are hundreds of acres planted just by divisions.
It's still in cultivation [1953] and I still consider it a good bush. It
also enters into the inheritance in two or three directions of all the
accepted varieties of the present day. (White 1953: personal
communication) Acquiring the bushes was only the first step. The following
account of their propagation was published in Success magazine in 1927:
Next we cut up the bushes into pieces, sometimes as many as a hundred
pieces to a bush. These were planted under glass in carefully prepared
propagating beds. But for a long time we had very poor luck with
propagation; only about ten per cent of the plants lived.... Finally we
narrowed down to six varieties which seemed in every way suitable for
commercial production, Rubel, Harding, Sam, Grover, Adams and Dunphy. (Hambidge
1927) The first successful field plantings were made in 1912 at the
present site of Elizabeth White's house, Suningive. The first plantings in
which varieties were set in alternate rows for the purpose of
cross-pollination were made just east of her home (Hambidge 1927).
The result of the blueberry research for Whitesbog was the production of a
new crop, as well as the entirely new business of propagating and selling
blueberry bushes. As plants were sold across the country, New Jersey
bushes became established in many states. The plants or varieties that
were selected here are grown now extensively in North Carolina and
Michigan. To a great extent in Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and
New England. To a lesser extent in a considerable number of other states,
such as New York and Connecticut. (White 1953: personal communication) The
plants cultivated for production at Whitesbog yielded considerable profits
even before the bushes were fully mature. In 1927 the 60-acre crop was
estimated at 64,000 quarts, or 2,000 crates. Thus, figuring $10.00 a
crate, the crop was worth $20,000 (Hambidge 1927). At its production peak,
Whitesbog had 90 acres of blueberries under cultivation.
Elizabeth's interests in cultivation did not end with blueberries.
Starting her own corporation apart from J.J. White, Inc., she began
nurseries for cultivating the local holly tree. She was eventually
recognized as one of four key horticulturists in the nation specializing
in hollies. Other plants from areas similar to the Pine Barrens were also
of interest. The Franklinia, a rare type of magnolia shrub found only in
one part of Georgia and originally discovered by John Bartram, the
eighteenth-century Philadelphia botanist, was introduced to Miss White by
Coville, She propagated the Franklinia and sold it through her nursery.
In 1923 at Whitesbog, Elizabeth constructed her house, Suningive, next to
Fenwick's Old Bog, the oldest cranberry bog on the farm that had been
developed by her grandfather in the 1850's. Surrounding the house was a
special garden of various native plants, Which Elizabeth designed to be
"in harmony with its surroundings" (White 194 1 A: I 1). This
garden seemed to symbolize Elizabeth's interests in the distinct and rich
natural flora of the Pines as well as in using the environment
harmoniously.
In addition to her interests in cultivation, Elizabeth, like her father,
was involved in the marketing of Whitesbog's products. In 1927 she helped
organize the New Jersey Blueberry Cooperative , Association. She was also
the first woman member of the American Cranberry Association and became
its first woman to receive the New Jersey Department of Agriculture's
citation (White 1953: personal communication).
Miss White was also acquainted with Elizabeth Kite and the sociological
research she had conducted in the Pine Barrens. This work was widely
publicized and misrepresented as describing all the Pines people, leading
to the popularly held belief in urban areas that all Pines residents were
backward, genetically in-bred and defective. Elizabeth White supported the
Kite research and became involved in raising money to build the
work-training school at Four Mile near New Lisbon. As for the popular
degradation of the Pines people, Elizabeth declared in 1914, "I am a
piney myself " (Elizabeth White 1914: 2).
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